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Tourist Info Dobbiaco
Via Dolomiti 3
I-39034 Dobbiaco
Alta Pusteria - South Tyrol - Dolomites - Italy
Phone: 0039 0474 972132
Fax: 0039 0474 972730
E-Mail: info@dobbiaco.info
VAT No. IT 00364950212
tax No. 00364950212

First ascent of the Three Peaks

"The highest sky of the Dolomites" - the Three Peaks

Mighty rocky ledges, steep walls, three peaks in the heart of the Dolomites. These world-famous mountains reach high into the sky of the Sesto Dolomite nature park. For many years, no one had the courage to conquer these formations. The mountains were said to be too mighty, something which reaches high into the sky cannot be conquered. This fear was reality until the 19th Century.

 

In August 1869, however, Paul Grohmann from Vienna came into the region for a holiday. When he saw the Three Peaks, the heart of the fanatic mountaineer nearly burst with the desire to stand at the top of this formation. While talking to the locals, he discovered that another mountaineer from Sesto, Franz Innerkofler, had already done some preparatory work in order to possibly ascend to the highest peak. On 21st August 1869, Grohmann, Innerkofler and Peter Salcher from Luggau went to the Rimbianco Hut and began their ascent to the gravel-filled channel at the South-Eastern base of the mountain, just below the ravine between the large and the small merlon. Their way led them across a mountain chimney which proved to be a key point, and onto the peak of the Large Merlon at an altitude of 2, 999 metres. After 2 hours and 55 minutes, the mighty mountain was conquered.

For some time after this first ascent no one dared to copy this dangerous undertaking. Ten years went by until Michl Innerkofler (not related to Franz) and George Ploner from Carbonin ascended and conquered the Western Peak. Finally, Michl and his brother Hans also conquered the Small Merlon. In the old times, this was a truly superb achievement, as the smallest of the peaks was looked at as the most difficult to ascend.

 

During the following years, hiking and climbing tourism came into the region. The mountain guides lead their guests higher and higher into the mountains. The routes became more and more dangerous. In 1914, with the beginning of World War I, tourism died and the local men were transported to the front lines. There were many defeats, many villages destroyed and the land was given to Italy.

For many years, the Three Peaks returned to be high rocky cliffs which are to be viewed from afar. The Northern wall of the Grand Peak, however, remained an important goal for all mountaineers, but no one had the courage to conquer it afresh. Only in 1933, while some mountaineers started talks and searched for a route to the peak of the Grand Peak via the Northern wall, the desire was raised in the heart of the Trent mountain guide Emilio Comici to climb and conquer this rocky formation. The call of the mountain was so strong that ? after several attempts and many difficulties ? a new route was found to the peak of the Grand Peak. This happened on 14th August of the same year. Emilio Comici made history with this event.

 

Since then, the Three Peaks have continuously been a point of attraction for passionate climbers and many ascend to the peak. The magic of this unique 3 peak formation is still the same, despite many ascents, and draws visitors under its spell.


source: Drei Zinnen/Helmut Dumler

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